Tuesday, 16 December 2008
Remembering
Every morning I remember too. I make my mug of tea, then take it to the sink for a quick twist of the cold tap. It’s just one small ritual which hurts sometimes, and helps. It reminds me of the care I took for granted, and which I go on missing. Two years on, I’m learning to cherish these daily moments of memory.
Wednesday, 10 December 2008
The Devil Wears Lipstick
After a mood-setting music hall Charleston, a series of darkly comic vignettes unfolded, blending white-faced actors with scratchy film and animation in a virtuosic display of precisely-timed anarchy. Edwardian nursery stories were deliciously subverted, so that children dress up as crack whores, twin sisters torment grandmamma with sticks, and the Devil does drag. Combined with 1920s touches of silent-film piano, cabaret and black bobbed hair, it was a bit like Louise Brooks reading Grimms’ Fairy Tales on acid. A perfect nightmare before Christmas.
Thursday, 4 December 2008
Noooooo!
Wednesday, 3 December 2008
Snugg as a bugg
Less humming at home, where the cold really seeps and bites. No double glazing here, just thin chilly panes sapping the central heating. I find myself doing housework just to warm up. Yesterday, finally fed up with frozen toes, I stormed into M&S and bought myself the daggiest pair of slippers I could find. Tan moccasins. Dreadfully, wonderfully lined with thick faux fur. To deal with the cold, I’ve decided, you just have to embrace your inner bogan. Manky trackie daks, ratty cardigans and layer upon layer of fashion-backward poly-fleece.
In fact it seems that bogan is the new black here in London. There is one store in the glittering new Westfield London (infinitely flashier than Fountain Lakes, it seems, and blingier even than Bondi Junction) which has had to employ door bitches (seriously) to control the velvet-roped crowds clamouring to get inside. It’s the Ugg boot shop.
So there you have it. The London look for Winter 08/09: BoBogan (Bourgeois Bogan. Or should that be Fauxgan?). Top Shop shelves are already groaning with skinny jeans and check flannel shirts. Time to complete the trend with my fake fluffy footwear, which shall now be known as the mockasin.
As showcased in the timeless stylings of Michelle and Ferret.
Tuesday, 28 October 2008
Le retour
As it happens, our time was too rushed to take real stock of any reaction. From the moment we picked up the family wagon hire car, the weekend was a tense blur of motorways, ferry crossings, traffic and packing. Saturday, our only full day in Paris, slid by in unsatisfactory fits, shopping aimlessly while I tried desperately to think what I’d rather be doing. It was of course wonderful to see friends – generously warm and welcoming as ever. That was one of the very best things about our brief return: discovering that, for us, the beauty of Paris will no longer just be in the buildings or the river or the light.
Having said that, I did experience one thrilling, “pinch me I’m in Paris” moment. After battling the grey waves of shoppers on the rue de Rivoli, we turned a corner and there, backlit by sudden sun, were the towers of Notre Dame, capped by the distant dome of the Panthéon. Moved almost to tears by this familiarly ravishing sight, I was then delighted by a new marvel: the delicate white Tour Saint-Jacques, finally unwrapped after years of restoration. We sat at its foot sipping cafés express, gazing on the bleached stone tracery, and I realised with relief that I need not fear this Paris ambivalence. We will take the best of both worlds, sashaying like locals along the boulevards, while gasping like tourists at treats (re)discovered.
Let them have cake, and eat it, too.
Wednesday, 22 October 2008
Holiday highlights 2
The harrowing hairpinned Gorges de Spelunca, and the relieved rush getting out of the car unscathed
Square towers squatting on warm rocks reflected in bright gentle blue
Close encounters of the cloven-hoofed kind driving through unhurried trips of mountain goats
High granite picnics and crushed wild mint
Following a liquid jade tumble up and up to its round mountain source
Strong local beer tasting of chestnuts and malt
St. Florent sunsets over Cap Corse, shushed by waves on the pebble beach below
Wednesday, 15 October 2008
Holiday highlights 1
Chatty apéritifs with Mum on the thin hotel terrace, hung over the darkening spires of Bordeaux
The shock of grey gothic stone and hot terracotta looking down over Cathédrale St. André
Witnessing opulence restored leaf by gilt leaf in the jewel-like Grand Théâtre
The overblown tumult and exuberance of the Fontaine des Girondins
Picnics watching fish swim lazily in the Dordogne, fixed in the limpid current
Skirting the twilight vineyards, hands sticky with blackberries and figs
Staying with the sun from first to last through the full high arc of blue, day after day
Feeling slightly voyeuristic at vendange watching the harvester tickling the grapes beneath vineleafy skirts
Distant pops of hunters’ shot and treehouse ladders to canopy lookouts
Dining and laughing amongst the vines, evenings dissolving into parlour game idiocy
The postcard perfection of the Château de Montbazillac
Wednesday, 17 September 2008
Sunk
You’d thank that it would be drought-dry Australia with this thrifty tradition of sparse water washing. It’s only recently however that grey water collecting and whiplash showers have become so widespread there. Surely if there’s one country that should be up to its elbows in luxurious suds, it’s England. With so much water falling down everywhere outside, showers should be lavish monsoon-like affairs, rather than these anaemic dribbles which are so useless at removing shampoo.
So when quizzed about the bucket-in-sink phenomenon, most English people murmur something about being able to empty leftover wine into the sink without tainting the washing-up water. Now it won’t surprise you to learn that I’ve never had a problem with leftover wine, but I have succumbed to the English method simply because my sink has a leak. So until it’s fixed, I’ll have to go native as I snap on my Marigolds and bend over my frugal bowl of bubbles.
Fortunately, before I become irreversibly anglicised (dare I say minogued?) I’m off to France and Italy for a few weeks of continental therapy. I’ll blog more on my return, I promise.
Tuesday, 29 July 2008
Changing Rooms, Soane-style
Soane, an architect best known for designing the Bank of England building, seems to have been an early DIY renovation fanatic. He began in 1792 with a single house containing living areas, a library and drawing room where he schmoozed his clients. Over the following 30 years, however, he undertook an extreme home makeover, demolishing and remodelling, gradually spreading into the two neighboring properties. His aim was to create the ideal space to display his extraordinary collection so that “amateurs and students” of architecture could appreciate and learn from the classics.
Apart from an abundance of antiquities (including a cross-eyed Hercules looking for all the world like a dim-witted quarterback), there are countless fragments of architecture: plaster casts and marble cast-offs perching and crowding every inch of space. It must be hell to dust. There is even the enormous alabaster sarcophagus of the pharaoh Seti I, which the British Museum couldn’t afford, and had to be installed though a demolished wall. Soane threw a three-day party to celebrate its arrival.
My favourites however were the paintings: three Canalettos, glorious expanses of Venetian detail and light, and an embarrassment of Hogarths. An entire room in fact full of two Hogarth series: A Rake’s Progress and An Election. I could have stood for hours, gasping with recognition of the funny, brutal and poignant characters in these canvasses.
The star of the museum, though, is the building itself. Soane’s wonderfully modern eccentricity shines through in the way light is coaxed into every corner of the house, through glass domes and metal grilles, so that unexpected shafts illuminate even the depths of the sepulchral chamber. Here, you really do feel like you are exploring a crumbling crypt or the half-excavated streets of an ancient city.
Just as Soane, in his home-reno makeover madness, intended.
Tuesday, 15 July 2008
AUSSIE IN CHIPPY FROGGY TITTY SHOCK
“Oh la la, mais quel cliché, le fish and chips, c’est so British!” This was the next surprise: almost every second person you overhear seems to be speaking French. I had heard that there has been a massive influx of young frenchies to London, keen to gain experience in the anglo-saxon corporate world, but I was not prepared for the sheer number. Someone told me before leaving Paris that London was now the second French city in the world by population, and I find that utterly believable. It’s quite comforting to hear the familiarity of French all around, making the cross-channel transition softer somehow. But I’m ashamed to admit how often I feel a mean surge of schadenfreude when I see a poor frog-out-of-water grappling with English. See what it’s like? See?
Language is just one reason why I am feeling instantly comfortable here. So many unexpected idiosyncrasies seem to remind me of Sydney, from red-tiled terraces to the way shops are strung out along the high street. Sunday trading! Customer service! And – bright zenith of pleasure - fat weekend newspapers!
There are of course other aspects of life here which strike me as particularly British. Bosoms, for example. Our first night in London was a marvellous introduction to that unique “oo-er” naughtiness which is so very English. We went to a taping of The Sunday Night Project hosted by Alan Carr, the current Queen of TV innuendo, and his guest Barbara Windsor, of “Carry On” fame. We enjoyed classic clips of Barbara’s bra pinging off and giggled at character names such as “Doctor Nookey”. It may be a French(ish) term, but the double entendre is, to me, quintessentially English. Take this smutty gem from “Carry on Columbus":
Chiquita: Oh no! So if I fell in, do you think they’d swallow me whole?
Marco: No, I’m told they spit that bit out.
Or, as the Rev. Spooner might have called it: “A Sail of Two Titties”.*
Wednesday, 11 June 2008
Cat Lady
Cat Lady coos and coaxes, but Minou won’t be having it. Usually, having passed them in the same place a few times, I see her walking sadly up the hill, the cat grimly triumphant in her arms.
I’ll miss them.
Friday, 30 May 2008
Chunnel vision
We’ve set our sights on
Like so many Frenchies, we’ve decided to give our careers a shot in the arm by going where the work is. LSP has suffered for so long, swimming against the tide in the French job market, where experience, it seems, counts for nothing unless you’ve been to the right school, and handwriting analysis is seen as a legitimate recruitment tool. I, too, will have more options to broaden my field of work, being able to work in the
So we’re shaking ourselves out of what has become, if we’re honest, semi-retirement and plunging back into the fast lane. The main thing, we tell ourselves, is that we’re staying in
The master plan is still Paris; but Paris on our terms, in security and certainty. One day, with replenished resources and renewed desire, we will return to carve our slice of this wonderful place.
In the meantime, we are keeping the farewell melancholy at bay by packing and looking for somewhere to live. Nothing like a rising wave of panic to stem the tide of sentiment.
Lord. Even my metaphors are muddled.
Tuesday, 20 May 2008
Shhh!
The most annoying man in the world was at my gym this morning.
I was in the middle of my wake-up workout, whittling away the grogginess, when my slowly sharpening focus was shattered. The swing doors smacked open and in he strutted: Mr. Cocky McTosspot. You know the type. His invasive swagger advertised his inadequacies so loudly that he might as well have been holding a sign saying “I DRIVE A RED SPORTS CAR.” He was one of those sad little men who compensate by making as much unnecessary noise as possible.
Ratcheting up the seat on the machines with an arrogant flick. Adjusting the weights with showy clanks. Huffing and straining, veins popping ostentatiously. Dramatic grunts and hiss-counting reps: “Dix-huitttttttt, dix-neufffffff, VINGT!” and then dropping the weight with an echoing crash as if to crow “Hear that? Hear how much iron I can lift?”
Mister, if eye-rolling made a noise, I’d be DEAFENING you right now.
Then, appalling cherry on the cake of his awfulness, he answers his mobile and shouts belligerently at some poor assistant. Repeatedly.
My mind seethes with revenge-thoughts of frightening violence. I stand up and tap him on the shoulder as he admires himself sickeningly in the mirror. I reach down, take his phone, place it on the floor, and smash it to pieces with a 25 kilo dumbbell.
OK, that last bit didn’t actually happen. But I did give him a really withering look on my way out. Take THAT, McTosspot!
Wednesday, 14 May 2008
Lemon Drops
Monday, 14 April 2008
Alien
Sweet, yes, but sad too, to see these friends transplanted so far from home. The anaemic silky oak stretching towards the glass roof made me think of the shivering clumps of wallabies I’d seen in the dismal menagerie of the Jardin des Plantes. Or the poor mute kookaburra pining in the
The rain passed and I held the gum leaf to my nose, inhaled home deeply, and stepped out blinking into the gorgeous, garish green.
Monday, 17 March 2008
Buds
This was my view as I sat out on our balcony for the first time this year, luxuriating in the anticipation of leafy peacefulness.
There is something so quintessentially French about the way they prune their trees. It makes the springtime transformation even more miraculous: black brutal stumps throwing out such verdant, misty filigree.
Only a few weeks to go until they remove the signs in the parks telling you that the lawns are having their Winter rest, and picnic season will finally be able to spread out its gingham blanket invitingly.
Not quite yet, though. La Chaîne Météo has just told me to expect storms with the possibility of light snow next week. Rough winds indeed.
Wednesday, 12 March 2008
Liberté, Egalité, Fidélité
We have been here for two years now (can you believe it?) and there have been many important Parisification progress-markers: renting an apartment, opening a bank account, making friends, obtaining a Carte de Séjour, finding a job, falling off a Vélib and attending the Bastille Day fireman’s ball.
While these are all impressive and hard-won achievements, I’ve found it is the everyday accomplishments which really count when it comes to feeling like you belong; the exhilarating mini-milestones which mark your integration. We were walking in the Parc Montsouris on Sunday (it’s our local, don’t you know) when we happened to bump into a French friend. Well, friend-of-a-friend is probably more accurate, but the point is he was French, and we knew him. We had a chat, promised to catch up for a drink and moved on, secretly thrilled by our first Totally Random Acquaintance Encounter. Absurd how much it made us feel like we’d arrived, this knowledge that, just like any other Parisian, we could run into people we knew at any time.
You come to cherish and celebrate these little landmark moments: the first time you stare haughtily back at a passer-by, until they look away. The day when the boulanger selects the choicest, softest baguette and hands it to you with a smile. That occasion when someone asks you for directions, and you can confidently give them. Or that sweet golden instant when the supermarket cashier asks if you have a carte de fidélité and you proclaim “Oui!”, producing it with a nonchalant flourish.
It’s taken me two years but I finally have “frequent shopper” loyalty cards for my two local supermarkets. They’re completely useless, of course, in terms of earning discounts or extra value. I couldn’t even tell you what the complicated accruals mean at the bottom of my docket. Their worth lies entirely in the “resi-dentity” they bestow; they make me feel like a true riverain, a card-carrying member of the neighbourhood. I finally belong in the local shop. For local people. And perhaps in another two years I’ll learn how to redeem my millions of points and exchange them for a novelty key-ring.
Now all I need is a plaid nylon shopping cart and I’ll fit right in.
Monday, 3 March 2008
Frightfully
I finally watched Atonement last night. As far as I can make out, it’s a film about people talking veh veh fast, whilst walking tehly tehly quickly. I found it all quite exhausting. (I can’t imagine how the actors felt.)
What is it about Keira Knightley: the jaw? The mouth? Dreadful.
Wednesday, 27 February 2008
Excess
It tickled me that he is described as “magistrat et gastronome”: only in
“Oh yes, he was a brilliant lawyer and politician. But his real claim to fame, bien entendu, is that he really loved his food.”
I first came across the name of this renowned epicure in the beautiful burgundian
Having done some research, I now realise what a high honour it was to have been thus described by such a fromagophilic giant of gastronomy. This is the man who wrote: "Dinner without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye." He obviously took food very seriously indeed; another famous quote of his asserts that "The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness on humanity, than the discovery of a new star."
Riiight.
Perhaps the street sign should read: “magistrat, gastronome et hyperboliste”.
Thursday, 14 February 2008
Tuesday, 12 February 2008
X-rated
The exhibition displays some of the racier contents of the library’s “sealed section”: the hell-vault used to protect the reading public from sexually explicit and morally corrupting writing, images and photography. It showcases everything from manuscripts of the Marquis de Sade to Japanese erotic woodblock prints via naughty postcards and early porno films.
Now I’m not suggesting that under-16s should be necessarily excluded because of the saucy nature of the exhibits (and, let’s be clear, some are very saucy indeed). The unfortunate fact is they’ll probably have seen worse on the web, Net Nanny notwithstanding. It’s more because of the sheer blushing, squirming embarrassment of looking at anything of a sexual nature with one’s elders that I think youngsters should stay away.
Even I, at more than double the minimum age, felt exquisitely uncomfortable as I sidled around the display cases, trying not to spend too long in front of any one image, lest the old lady on my left thought I was some drooling deviant. I made such a show of reading the captions and accompanying explanatory notes that I barely even registered the rude pictures themselves, so swift was my nonchalant, “I’m an intellectual not a pervert” scan. Funnily enough, the old lady had no such compunction in inspecting the exhibits in great and appreciative detail. In fact it was quite difficult to get close enough for even a cursory glance at some displays, so thick was the cluster of forthright grey-haired admirers.
It doesn’t matter which side of sixteen you fall on, there is just something deeply disturbing about looking at explicit images of fornication next to someone who could be your grandmother.
Apart from that, the exhibition is most enjoyable. Oh, but not in a dirty, hands-in-pockets sort of way, you understand. Gosh. I mean it’s very instructive and historically edifying. Yes. Edifying.
Look out for the medieval illuminated manuscript with a tiny, colourful drawing in the margin depicting a nun plucking phallic fruit from what can only be described as a penis tree. You’ll find it through the flagellation room and past the bordello guidebooks on the left. You may need to elbow a few grannies out of the way, though.
Image: Création c -album, photographie Alain Goustard/BNF, architecte Dominique Perrault © Adagp, Paris 2007Tuesday, 5 February 2008
Snap
Why do we take photos? The one above, for example. I took this just over a week ago, as I arrived in the South Pacific rapture of l’Ile des Pins in
I think the first reason lies in the “pinch me” reflex: a need to capture visual evidence of having really experienced such a too-good-to-be-true place. Could this really be happening? Better take a photo to make sure, to produce as Exhibit A when I wake up from my holiday-dream. Hey presto: paradise proved.
The second reason is, of course, so that you can show others. Not from some sadistic “look where I’ve been nyer-nyerdy-nyer-nyer” impulse. (Well, not always. Although I must say it did give me a thrill to feel everyone crane their necks in our wintry Parisian café as I showed LSP my vacation photos on the laptop. Even the impassive waiter hovered excessively, taking much longer than usual with the cruet and bread.) Our essential human urge, when faced with the good fortune of finding such perfection, is to share it. As freely and broadly as possible.
I was lucky enough to be able to discover this breathtaking place with my Mum and my sister, which made it even more priceless through our shared, gleeful disbelief. (Indelible, heart-swelling memories of happiness which burst to the surface the instant I look at our pictures.) But for all those dear to me who weren’t there, I have this image for you. Isn’t it wonderful? I hope it makes you feel the same warmth I feel when I look at it.
And one day, may we stand together, grinning, in front of an equal splendour, and take a photo of it.